Climb four floors and reach this small, romantic, cosy studio at the top of an old building in a quiet lane leading to Napoli's most lively and characteristic neighbourhood. Some central quartiers are now losing authenticity to the booming tourism. Not the neighbourhood of Stella, where working-class families live, artisans have their workshops, and restaurants do not make their menus for foreigners but cater to the much smaller pockets and much more refined taste of authentic Neapolitans.