Hotel Esmeralda

So quirky, but great facilities and unbeatable location and view. Poppy is a wonderful host. I will be back for sure!

Steep stairs and no lift, but I had help with my luggage

Firstly, the location: you couldn’t wish for better. The hotel sits between three major transport stops — Metro Cité and Saint‑Michel, plus the RER Saint‑Michel Notre‑Dame. From any of these, it’s remarkably easy to find. It’s also next door to the famous Shakespeare & Company bookshop and directly opposite Notre‑Dame de Paris. We had the top floor (more on that in a moment), and the view was simply stupendous. The stairs and corridors are a little narrow, so take your time — but it’s worth every step to traverse those C17th oak banisters and stairways. They’re part of the experience, part of the charm. Our room had two single beds and a double, all wonderfully comfortable. There was a toilet and hot shower, a sink with toiletries, and clean towels supplied. Everything was simple, spotless, and exactly what you need after a day in the city. From the top floor, the view is nothing short of extraordinary — a clear, uninterrupted line of sight to Notre‑Dame, its spire rising once more and the familiar gargoyles keeping watch. It felt fitting, staying in a hotel named for Victor Hugo, to look out over the very stage on which his great drama unfolded. The wallpaper and design throughout the house are out of this world — a genuine step back into history. The hotel has an air of eccentricity, beautifully augmented by the friendly, laid‑back attitude of the staff. It feels so far removed from any international chain hotel. Esmeralda lands with a huge personality, real comfort, and in the truest sense of the word, accommodating.

A small word of caution for travellers with mobility concerns: the building is historic, and the stairways are narrow and winding. There is no lift, and reaching the upper floors does require a bit of care and patience. If you are carrying heavy suitcases, you may find the climb to the top floor particularly challenging. For most guests it simply adds to the character of the house, but anyone with limited mobility may wish to request a lower floor.

The staff were so friendly and kind. The location was beautiful. The room was warm and comfy. The history of the hotel is fascinating. We loved it.

Our heavy bags!

The location was excellent. The staff were helpful and friendly.

The rooms were difficult to access, the carpets and decor looked grubby. The bathrooms needed modernised and the lack of air conditioning made sleeping uncomfortable. There were fans in the room, which were noisy. The photo's on the website make the rooms look a lot better than they actually were. The whole place needs a lot of TLC, especially for the price. The place was clearly repaired by an amateur DIY enthusiast.