Casa Mesilda is a real gem, tucked away in the mountains about four kilometres from Panes. We checked in at Hotel Covadonga in Panes, where Sofía kindly offered to drive ahead of us to show us the way. With the coordinates in hand, we managed perfectly well on our own! She also invited us for breakfast at the hotel on our departure day. This large house is absolutely charming, somewhat isolated in the rough mountain surroundings, but connected by a decent road. We arrived in mist and light drizzle, which somehow made the setting even more atmospheric. The house was clean, the beds were very comfortable and the bathroom facilities were excellent. This is a place to slow down and enjoy a simpler way of life: retro feel throughout, water is heated in a kettle, and the dishes are washed by hand. There is no Wi-Fi and mobile reception only outdoors — a rare opportunity to resort to the old-fashioned art of conversation. We also loved the little details: the guest book included a lovely pencil drawing of the house by previous guests, along with their account of the solar eclipse (sadly, hidden by clouds). And the interior design magazines from 1996 were an wonderfully nostalgic touch!